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Mt. Pumori 7161m. Expedition
April/October
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Mt. Pumori 7161m. Expedition
April/October
Pumori Ascend - More
information
The ascent starts at
5,300m. In a beautiful base camp aside a small lake
(water source, take water filters or barrels - where
you can pack your equipment- and to clarificate the
water -let sand to drop all night-). From base camp
you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest you
can imagine, just above is Kalapattar Rock hill at
5545m.
After a 3 hrs walk (loaded) trough an
easy hike terrain you will reach camp 1 or advanced
base camp 5700m. To let your equipment and supply
nearby. After this you will face a 500m. Elevation
difference trough a 40 to 65 degrees slopes, 100m.
Horizontal traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow
ridges, some 5m. Ice wall, one tunnel climb. Pumori
has many rock and mixed climb (not to need rock pitons
but take some in case for the fixed rope) and spring
might be more rock falling. If you have good Sherpa,
Could be good for spring season. Camp 2- 6200m. Is
located on a narrow ridge at the end of the section
described before. Expose to wind and far from
avalanches (but people say it has happened before that
avalanches reach camp 2) the next 400m. Is an ice
climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. Ice walls, many
crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big
seracs hanging from the shoulder 6500m. The shoulder
can be camp 3, but is too windy and not much gain.
From here you cans see Tibet. After this it is presume
that the rest is a wide ridge that takes you to a not
hidden summit, but like I told you, You still need
rope here because of many crevasses, Ice walls.
Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous crevasse 200m
large, 40m. Deep, 10-20m wide. Try to walk towards
Tibet side where the crevasses ended just before a
great cliff, but in the other side the snow two-layer
difference for avalanche danger. You can try Nepal
side and you can reach the beautiful famous Pumori
cliff and crossed the crevasse. After this the walk to
the summit is only walk & you can summit Pumori
7145m.
Normal route: This is the easiest route
to climb this peak and most of the expedition climbed
this peak so far have used this route. As you know
Pumori is not easy as like other mountains, there are
technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you,
you have take climbing Sherpa and who will take to
Summit. We can arrange for you summiter Sherpas for
the Pumori, if you have required. You need to have at
least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The
base camp is just above Gorekshep at the altitude of
5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at
the altitude of 5,650m. Around the phase of Pumori. We
set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the
altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this
peak is around camp 1 and 2. We set camp third at the
altitude of 6,480m. Around the corner after the ridge.
We/you can summit from the third camp to the top. This
route has been used by former expedition to Pumori in
every year.
South-West ridge: Only few
climbers tried this route, as this is one of the most
difficult routes. This route follows directly from the
top of Kalapatar and goes straight over the ridge
nearly 75 Degree. As this route has lots of technical,
I recommend you to use the normal route for the Pumori
and you & your group will reach the Top. If you
need more information please check Himalayan Journal
1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. In this book
written by Climber of Pumori who have been summit.
They Sumitted by normal route.
Itinerary:
Day 01:
Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
Day 02-03: KTM official work
& preparation for expedition
Day
04: Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding
lodge
Day 05: Phakding to
Namche lodge
Day 06: Namche
rest for acclimatization lodge
Day
07: Namche - Thyanboche lodge
Day 08: Thyangboche -
Pheriche lodge
Day 09:
Pheriche - Lobuche lodge
Day
10: Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp - Camping
Day 11-28 Climbing Period for
Pumori 7145m. (Camping)
Day
29: Pumori BC - Pangboche -Lodge
Day 30: Pangboche - Namche
-Lodge
Day 31: Namche - Lukla
- Lodge
Day 32: Fly Lukla -
Kathmandu & transfer hotel
Day
33-34: Kathmandu
Day 35:
final departures
Royalty for 1- 7
member, Total US$ 3000.00
Additional member
each US$ 400.00 (Up to 5 Person)
Garbage
Deposit per team USD 2000.00
Cost includes:
1. Permit Fee (Royalty) of Pumori
2. Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu Maximum 6
nights with bed & breakfast
3. Kathmandu -
Lukla - Kathmandu flight tickets & cargo of
equipment
4. Full board trekking with lodge
& Food for BC Expedition period
5. Porter
or Yak Lukla to BC & while back to Lukla
6. Equipment: trekking equipment for Base
Camp, 2 men tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table and
chares, Mattresses
7. All kitchen equipment
for Base Camp
8. Liaison office allowances
,equipment allowances for staff, flight ticket,
insurance for Nepalese staffs, Officer during the
expedition period
9. Permit and National park
fees
10. All transfer airport-hotel-airport
11. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen
helper, Necessary porters or Yak
12. All
necessary taxes.
13. Agency service charge
Cost does not includes:
1. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
2. High altitude (climbing) food, fuel, Gas
above BC & personal climbing gear
3.
Personal accident insurance and emergency evacuation,
Helicopter rescue
4. International Airport
Departure Tax
5. Nepal custom duty for import
of expedition goods arriving into Nepal, cargo.
6. Bar bills
7. Satellite phone and
Waki takies
8. Extra expenses for personal
9. Oxygen and Mask regulator
10.
Climbing Sherpa

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